Paris

As it turns out, I'm a liar.

I promised photos over a week ago to a couple of people, yet between attending a conference (at which the conference hotel was set ablaze!) and finally getting back to Chicago, I simply didn't want to. Not because I don't love editing and posting photos (because I love feeling artsy!), but because of the finality that seemed to come with doing so. I am back to the reality and actuality of my life here in the city, where there are deadlines and meetings and demands made on my soul! (Okay... that was a bit melodramatic... but only by a bit.) I've heard of the post-wedding and post-baby melancholia- is post-trip ennui an acceptable woe nowadays? If so, I'm afraid I've been infected... 

At any rate, my friend Lynn and her family are in Paris at the moment, and she's posting photos on Instagram and filling me in on their adventures (or at least she will be, once she wakes up and checks her Facebook messages and finds out that I'm bugging her for details!). But for now, I will be content with the moments I captured myself and the memories of walking through neighborhoods, speaking very, very poor French to a guy I met at the train station (aided by hand gestures, we kind of understood one another), and eating wonderful food and drinking horrible French beer (sorry, France... Belgium has you beat in this category). Below are a few of my favorite photos from my almost three day excursion to the city, as well as the itinerary my wonderful friend, Anahit, made for me before I left. (She, by the way, is a Parisian expert who absolutely needs to open her own business creating itineraries and planning trips to France for clueless people like me.)

Jouir! 

Day 1:

I hadn't really planned on going to Paris; I was actually thinking of flying to Berlin after coming back from Johannesburg. However, tickets were a bit more than I had wanted to pay, so I stuck around London and Cambridge for about a week before hopping the EuroStar train to Paris. It's only about a 2.5 hour trip and absolutely worth doing, even if you only go to the city for a day or two. I stayed at Smart Place hostel (smartplace.com), which is located by the Gare du Nord train station. Doing so was not only cheaper than most places in Paris, but it's also a safe neighborhood and you can easily walk (or meander) to your destination from there. For the first day, I was sent to many of the more touristy sites in the city- which was great, because I think that those should be on anyone's to-do list. The listed itinerary is a mix of what Anahit sent me and my additions/notes.

1. Paris Opera House: Exquisite architecture on the outside, and you can go inside and nose around a bit without having to take the tour. But if you have the time, I am sure the tour is worth it. (The photo below was taken outside- I'm amazed at how ornate even the most commonplace items were in Paris and London.)

2. Eiffel Tower- it's super touristy but it's an icon of Paris. If the lines aren't too big, then head to the top for incredible views- it's one of those totally overpriced and cheesy things, but it really is gorgeous up there. (On a side, I did not venture up into the tower... I am too terrified of heights to do something like that on my own. So, Anahit, when you and I go back to Paris one day, you can pat my shoulder and make sure I don't pass out as we go up. I did, however, linger in the park and people watch while I was there.)

3. Head to a Seine River Cruise for a one hour cruise along the Seine in a Bateau Mouche- you will see signs for them all over the place and you can book a ticket in advance. (Again, I didn't do this, but only because I wanted to save time for a few other things, instead.

4. Explore Champ de Mars, a large public park located right in the middle of the Eiffel Tower and the Ecole Militaire- you can grab a croissant and have yourself a little picnic on the lawn.

Pretty sure this says: Joy of balloons strictly enforced (here).

5. Pop into the Hotel des Invalides, which is a French historical military museum. I didn't go into the museum, itself, but the grounds are stunning and worth walking around.

6. Head to the Rodin Museum, which is worth the visit for the grounds alone. This is one of the places I'm so happy I chose to visit- the museum was actually once a hotel, and the art against the divine design of the space is something I've not experienced elsewhere. 

Finally, someone with larger shoes than me!

7. Stroll your way to the Alexander Bridge, the most popular and decorated bridge in Paris.

8. From there, you can make your way over to the Champs Elysee... if you walk all the way to the beginning of the street, you will be at the Place de la Concorde. 

9. Right between the Place de la Concorde and the Louvre is the Tuileries Gardens, which were designed by Catherine de Medicis and they are absolutely stunning. (There was also a carnival taking place near here when I visited, which was also fun to stroll through.)

10. From the gardens, walk to the Louvre. In my opinion, unless you have an entire day to spend there, it's not worth visiting. During August (when I was in Paris), it's super crowded and you'll waste time indoors when you can be outside, exploring!

11. End the day by going to Angelina's at 226 rue de rivoli (at the Tuileries- not a very long walk from the Louvre) - they are LEGENDARY for their hot chocolate. In fact, after I drank my small pot of hot chocolate and had my (second) croissant of the day, I was feeling very diabetic-y. Seriously. It will leave you in a happy, chocolate-infused coma. 

 Day 2

I started out my day a bit later than I had wanted (being un-young and traveling can make one very, very tired, apparently). But I still had a fun time wandering through the different arrondissements and seeing how the character of each neighborhood changed as I moved throughout the city.

1. Visit La Pistacherie. It is a small shop filled with nothing but pistachio-based treats, and it is expensive (because pistachios, regardless of where you buy them, are ridiculously expensive), but it is incredibly good.

2. Walk to the Paroisse Saint Merri, a gothic-style church that now houses an art gallery. It is just south of The Centre Pompidou, on Rue Saint Martin.

3. There is quite a lot of shopping that one can do between Saint Merri and Notre Dame. However, if you see a place called "The Love Store", don't assume that it is anything other than an adult-themed store. I don't know why I thought it was anything other than that, but it's not. 

4. Keep walking south to the Ile de la Cite. This is Anahit's favorite little plot of land in Paris (I mean, I guess it's okay...). This is where you can find Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, the Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette awaited execution), and also general architectural splendor as this neighborhood is where you can find some of the oldest residential areas in Paris (and the richest, bein sur!).

Famous lock bridge. Don't worry if you forget your lock to put on the bridge, someone will be close by to sell you one.

5. While you're there, walk down to the Square du Vert-Galant, which is a park at the end of the Ile de la Cite that juts out into the Seine, with a beautiful willow tree at the very edge. You can see Paris in front of you and it is a beautiful (and VERY romantic!) spot to go with a blanket and vino and watch the sun set over Paris. (So find someone to smooch while you're there!!) 

6. In the evening, head to the Latin Quarter (Rue St. Michel) or St. Germain de Pres to see how lively Paris is at night. While there, go to Les Pipos, an authentic French restaurant with amazing filet mignon and great food, wine, and ambience. 

 Day 3

(Sorry, no photos from the day... I think this was the day I grabbed the camera but forgot the battery.)

1. Head to Montmartre for the day. 

2. Go to Le Relais Gascon. When you go to Montmartre, don't even think of going anywhere else for lunch (or dinner - I think they are open for both!). You can sit on the patio outside which overlooks charming hilly Montmartre streets and they serve THE BEST SALADS and really good rosé. Like, plates the size of your face piled with deliciousness. And really well priced, which is always a bonus in Paris. And from there you can walk all around Montmartre. (Disclaimer: I didn't get to eat here, but Anahit is never wrong in her recommendations!)

3. Walk around Montmartre, then head to the Sacre Coeur for stunning views of Paris and beautiful architecture. Just be prepared to deal with some shady people while you're here- if people approach you, just be rude and give them a pre-emptive no. Seriously, it's okay to be a rude American in this situation. 

4. From Montmartre, you can go to Moulin Rouge. They have an adjoining museum, which I passed on, but it's also an option while you're there. 

5. If you are in the area during the weekend, there is a giant flea market called Les Puces that you must visit. For info on this and other flea markets, visit: parisperfect.com/paris-flea-markets.php. 

This, for me, was it! I had such a short amount of time in the city, but I really enjoyed walking around and taking in all of the beautiful architecture, winding streets, and eating. I ate a lot. Like, more than any person ever should, even on vacation. But the crepes, the bread, the chocolate... they were all begging to be eaten! Hopefully these recommendations will help you in planning your own trip.

Bonjour!

English Countryside

If you travel to London, I beg of you... schedule some time to visit the countryside! London was a fine city, full of beauty and tourist attractions; however, the best part of England (for me, at least) was found outside of the hustle and bustle of the city. The rolling hills, streets devoid of the massive tourist crowds, the quaint shops and kind people made it hard to leave England. I would have to say, though, my favorite part was meeting up with my friends Amy and David, and their three amazingly sweet (and absolutely hilarious!) children. Amy and I have been friends since high school, and even if we haven't keep in regular contact, we have a friendship that is easily re-started when we are able to connect. Their hospitality provided me the opportunity to re-charge (and wash a load of laundry- clean undies, woo!), something I hadn't realized I needed. Traveling on your own can be invigorating, challenging, a tiny bit terrifying, but also lonely. I made friends throughout my trip, no doubt, but none of them have memories of my younger self or know my family well enough to ask about them by name. I have been lucky to make and maintain friendships all over the country and now in some parts of the world, but there is nothing like seeing someone and feeling as though you're home, even if the particular space you're in at that moment isn't really "home". I think that's the strangest but most comforting thing to realize, that people can be home for us, too.

I shall digress, though, and make a few recommendations. It is only an hour-long trip from the center of London to Epping Station (on the Central Line), although watching the city dissipate through the dirty train windows made it seem like a longer (though not unbearable) trip. Now, I will be frank with you and say that I have no idea what is in Epping, nor do I know where one should stay if you do happen to make it to the area. However, there are buses that could most likely carry your travel-tired bones into the village, or you could simply walk up the hill and to what seemed to be like the main drag of the town. (Random note from Amy: many of the villages and small towns have a street named "The Road", which used to be the main pathway through the area.) I have no photos to share of Epping, mainly because I was too excited to see Amy and her younger daughter to do anything but talk and be slack-jawed at everything I was seeing. After picking up her kiddos and their friend at day camp, we headed to Bury St. Edmunds. This was my absolute favorite place (until the next day, when we drove out to Framlingham!), mainly because of the Abbey and the garden beside the Abbey. (Read all about the history here: english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/bury-st-edmunds-abbey/history-and-research)

This Abbey has been renovated and maintained and is, frankly, stunning. On site, there are ministers who are more than willing to chat with you about the history of the church the grounds, although I'd be willing to bet that they would also be more than happy to talk about more substantial topics, as well. I meandered around the inside of the attraction while Amy and all of the munchkins visited the aviary and ruins, both of which are part of grounds (along with a giant garden and overly friendly squirrels). I met up with them after touring, but, as custom in England, it began to rain shortly after I found them scampering around the park. But if you're interested in seeing photos of the park and the ruins of where the old buildings stood, you can check out the English Heritage site. I should note that if you're going to be traveling throughout England and want to visit these types of sites (and you should want to do so, if you have any inkling of a soul), then it would be worth it to sign up for an English Heritage membership. They have not only a website but they also provide you with a guidebook of all their attractions, divided out by region, so that you can easily skim through the many historical sites they have under their care. (Nope, not paid by them... although I wouldn't object to it!) 

Amy took me to two other sites, Framlingham Castle and Lavenham Village... and I'm sad that I ever left either place! Framlingham is another English Heritage site, a former stronghold and the site of a poor house that still stands today. Now, going to a castle would, for most children, be akin to torture or being grounded. But Amy's kiddos loved it- because those in charge of the site have taken care to make it family (and child!) friendly. There are games and blocks that are kept out on the lawn for folks to play with, coloring pages and books inside, and tactile displays in the museum area. But the coolest (yet terrifying) part of the site is the catwalk that runs on top of the wall. It provides you with a spectacular view of the area and allows visitors to see the upper ruins of castle, all of which is breathtaking (not only because it's gorgeous, but also because of the dizzying height). I forgot my camera on this outing, but I found the following photos on Google that can give you a good idea of the site. 

The last place we visited was Lavenham Village, home of the crooked houses (I thought Amy kept calling them "cricket houses", so I was surprised when we arrived there and they were all askew and not just tiny... I need my hearing checked, I think). I won't say too much about this part of the trip, mainly because I feel as though I've rambled enough about the countryside and because I think the photos are self-explanatory. Again, these photos are from Google.

These photos really don't do justice to the village or to how absolutely crooked these homes really are! I was slightly concerned that one would fall on us as we were passing by on the sidewalk (not really, but it was pretty serious). We ate dinner at The Swan Hotel, which I absolutely must come back to one day so that I can stay in what I can only imagine are stunning accommodations. For more info on Lavenham and the attractions in the area, visit: discoverlavenham.co.uk. 

I left early on the third day so that I could catch an afternoon train to Paris, an experience and trip that I cannot wait to write about tomorrow! Until then, bonjour mon ami! 

London

I fear that I am two weeks, three countries, and roughly 150,000 miles (it may be more akin to 15,000) behind in posting. I was able to spend a few days wandering around the city of London (and even the City, proper) after leaving South Africa, taking in the sites and soaking in the British culture. (I felt Leslie Knope walking around the city: youtube.com/watch?v=Rks-0naOjKk)

London is a beautiful city, full of grand, wonderful, old buildings and neighborhoods and parks. The weather was, shockingly, sunny, breezy, and just the right amount of warm- a drastic change from cold and rain that I had experienced in Cape Town! The chill melted off my bones as I took in the sights and admired the architecture- although the gorgeous weather also had the unfortunate effect of lightening my wallet. What I do want to say about London is that if you were knocked unconscious and fell into a coma for days on end, and someone then took you to London and dropped you into the middle of the city and you finally woke up and wandered (unsupervised and in your hospital gown) onto the street, it wouldn't take you long to figure out where you had been taken. Because there are London-themed shops EVERYWHERE. Now, granted, Chicago has their gift shops and such, but the tourist shops seem to literally be on every street, each filled with the same collection of trinkets and tshirts for tourists to take home (and I admit that I picked up a few things my last day there). When Urbanists write about the consummate "tourist city", this is what I picture. It is not only built on the tourist economy, but the businesses also do what they can to drive and build this aspect of of the economy. We often blame gentrification or urban planning on destroying the culture of a neighborhood, but what about the drive to develop the tourist sector in a city? What impact is that having on neighborhoods and the city, overall?

Okay... no more shop talk. On to some of my photos! Enjoy!

Chim chim chiminey, chim chim cheree! 

Big Ben in the faaaaaaaar distance. 

Beautiful decoration on lamppost. Seriously, so many of the streetlights throughout both London and Paris were amazingly adorned! 

Found at the Palace of Westminster. So regal and grand! 

Big Ben. Truthfully, I had a Ron Swanson moment when I first started walking past (youtube.com/watch?v=MYgCVszCKaQ), but it is pretty cool to see in person. Although, it was crowded... super crowded. 

Hugs! 

Far east end of Hyde Park. I'm assuming this is an homage to The Godfather...?

Water fountain in Hyde Park- how stinkin' cute is this?? On a related note, I loved all of the water fountains throughout London, since I tend to be cheap and only buy bottled water if I'm truly desperate.

Prince Albert memorial in Hyde Park. It is very large- and you know what they say about grandiose memorials to men... they tend to be crowd pleasers. 

Found in the Baker Street Tube station. The only way this could be more adorable would be if those faces were actually photos of Benedict Cumberbatch. 

There is a Sherlock Holmes Museum, but there was quite a queue to get into it and I am not a patient person when it comes to lines for museums. But the area is fun to explore and close to the London Zoo (if you're into that kind of cuteness).

I love this because someone wrote (in pencil) "Lauren (last name forgotten) Sucks". I'm sorry, Lauren, that your name has been sullied. I don't know what you did to incur this kind of wrath, but I hope that you have taken steps to protect yourself from this clearly deranged individual. 

A statue of Newton at the British Library, which is worth checking out. They have displays and exhibits that change every few months (bl.uk). 

There are pithy posters like this all over the Tube. Chicago needs to look into putting these up- especially this one. 

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the start of World War I, and all around the Tower of London, there is a display of thousands of red poppies to mark the event and honor those who died. 

The outside of a cathedral that has a cafe located inside. This is a very helpful description, I know, but the only thing I can remember about the church is that it was located close to the Tower, off of a main street, and the people there were so kind. You could go in and grab a drink, sit and admire the architecture, and cool off... if I could remember where it was located. 

Penguins!

My last Saturday (for now) in Cape Town- what better way to spend it than with some tuxedoed friends? These guys hang out at Boulder Beach, which is a little over an hour by train from the city center, and reside in a national park.

Wait a minute... that is definitely not a penguin. This is a sham! 

Oh, okay. We're good. 

(It was really hard to leave here...)

This week is a travel week, which is exciting and exhausting at the same time. I leave the Cape on Tuesday for Johannesburg, then head to London on Thursday. Ten days in Europe, a week in DC, and then I will finally be back in my bed.